I had high expectations for this trip to Haida Gwaii. They were exceeded!
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After March 31, 2026 , due to increased airfare, the price increases to $6895.
“An unforgettable week on Haida Gwaii, meeting with Haida carvers and other artists, Skidegate’s internationally renowned museum, hiking along rainforest trails, heartache tours through abandoned, moss-covered villages in Gwaii Haanas, humpback whales, comfortable lodgings, meals to suit a range of diets, a treasure chest of crafts in Masset, and much more, all led by our guide David, whose easy, relaxed style, flexibility and knowledge made for a lifetime of memories.” August 25, 2025. See this and other reviews in out “Reviews” section.
We are honored to live and work on the traditional, ancestral and unceded territory of the Haida People.
Welcome to our cultural exploration of remote Haida Gwaii, a name that translates to “Islands of the People.” 
Your trip Leader is David Hopper, Masters in Environmental Studies (MES). Born in England, grew up in Singapore, and immigrated to Canada with his parents and siblings in 1967. David’s’ working career began in mineral exploration which took him to remote areas throughout British Columbia. In 1980 he moved to Halifax, Nova Scotia, where he started a long career as an environmental planner with provincial departments of natural resources and environment. He contributed to establishing conservation protection to over 12% of the land base of Nova Scotia. Now retired from civil service, David enjoys teaching environmental geography part-time at St Mary’s University and returns to the west coast to guide tours of the Canadian Rockies and Haida Gwaii for Midnight Sun Adventure Travel.
Our small group of five follows David to delve into quaint shops and galleries. Here we meet the Haida artisans and guides we have come to know over the last decade. Haida People including carvers, Watchmen, and interpreters provide an understanding of their traditional way of life and how the Haida have adapted to changing times, including tourism. Experience SG̱ang Gwaay), the village of Skedans (Haida name is Ḵ’uuna), St. Mary’s Spring, Tow Hill, Balance Rock and the site of the Golden Spruce. Immerse yourself in the wild, ocean-swept landscape of Naikoon Provincial Park. Visit with Haida Watchman at remote SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay.
As a small group of six, we tread lightly on this land, our steps taking us to closer to an immersive experience. Please see our videos showing a traditional pole raising.
Our travel to Haida Gwaii begins at Vancouver Main Terminal Airport when we board our flight to Sandspit. The 1.5 hour fight skirts the Coastal Mountains, swings north-west over Hecate Strait and then crosses over Gwaii Haanis National Park and Reserve.
At Sandspit Airport, your Midnight Sun Driver/ Guide will load your luggage and then escort the group to Ailford Bay where we take the 20 minute crossing to Skidegate on Graham Island. A stop the Dajiing Giids, formerly known at Queen Charlotte, Visitor Centre will give us “the big picture” and we load up on local maps. From here we’ll check into our bed and breakfast and tour the village of Dajiing Giids and Skidegate.
In the evening we experience a taste of Haida culture and lifestyle by dining in a truly unforgettable way. At Keenwaiis Kitchen our Haida Chef, Roberta Olson who specializes in traditional Haida and local foods, will prepare an authentic three course dinner for our group. From her home, Roberta, whose Haida name is Keenawaii, has served dignitaries, government officials and celebrities. The seafood and venison are locally harvested as are the berries, mushrooms and other wild edibles.
Accommodation: One or two queen beds and private bathroom.
Meals: Dinner
After an early breakfast, we make our way down to the boat dock for a 15 minute briefing. Here, our 30 foot aluminum catamaran awaits with its heated closed cabin, bathroom and open deck space. Guests are issued gear including rubber boots, toques and floater jackets. Then, off we go to the Haida villages of Ḵ’uuna Llnaagaay (commonly known as Skedans) and T’aanuu Llnagaay for walks through two distinctive village sites. Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans) was a village of 26 to 30 longhouses at its height.
In this remote corner of the world, we view these ruins as structures that evoke and summon the past to an encounter with contemporary reality. At Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay, guests follow the network of clam shell trails to view the remains of the village. The poles that remain and the depressions of several longhouses give one a sense of the former grandeur of the village, splayed out along Skedans Bay. Along the way, Haida Gwaii guides incorporate storytelling, songs and local history to give guests a glimpse into the heritage of the Haida People and how they protect the land and waters.
After lunch, we board our boat and head to the village of Tanu. The Eagle and Raven Wolf village of T’aanuu Llnagaay translates to Eelgrass Town in reference to the eelgrass beds nearby. This village was once populated between 25 and 40 longhouses. Though no standing poles remain at T’aanuu, the house depressions and moss-covered house posts provide a vivid reminder of the history this place holds.
Accommodation: One or two queen beds and private bathroom.
Meals: Breakfast + Lunch
This morning we head to the village of Skidegate and the Haida Culture Centre at Kay Llnagaay. More ambitious passengers may want to walk the six k’s along the coastal road to the Centre.
Here at the Centre, guests will get a guided tour of this award winning Haida Gwaii cultural tourism attraction. The Centre sits on the ancient site of Kay Llnagaay or “Sea Lion Town,” and is designed to resemble the traditional Oceanside Haida Village that once stood in its place. The Centre houses a museum which contains thousands of Haida artifacts including the largest argillite collection in the world. We’ll also see poles, traditional and ceremonial clothing as well as everyday household objects.
At the Performance House stories, drumming and traditional dances are performed. We’ll also visit the carving house/ Gyaa K’id Naay and Tluu Naay Canoe Shed / Skaajang Naay. The large open-walled building of the carving house is designed to hold monumental poles, canoes and any other work that would be too large to fit in the enclosed space of the carving shed. Guests are invited to walk around and tour Haida artists at work in this work space. Currently, the Skidegate Pole carved by legendary Haida artist Bill Reid is housed in the Carving House until it’s ready to be raised again inside the walls of the Haida Gwaii Museum.
At the canoe shed, learn about the Haida mode of travel, transportation, food/resource gathering and trade by exploring the history and importance of canoes in Haida lives.
Haidas were fierce warriors and well-known coastal travellers, having ventured to Victoria for trading purposes in earlier times during the 1800s. Critical to the sustainability of Haida culture was the canoe which the Haida depended on in order to trade with neighbouring coast First Peoples and travel between communities.
Those guests feeling the need to get out and stretch their legs can elect to take a walk around Spirit Lake. This hiking trail is hard packed and well maintained rated easy to moderate with some steep parts at the beginning.
After lunch at the local bistro we’ll head north on the Yellowhead Highway. Along the way, nestled behind a stand of tall cedars, a narrow trail leads to the ocean and one of the most mysterious and uniquely photographed sites in all of Haida Gwaii: Balance Rock. Here, we stop and explore the area known to the Haida as a spiritual site. Enroute to Tlell we stop at the Jungle Beach and St Mary’s Spring where those who take a sip are destined to come back to Haida Gwaii. We check into our local B&B and enjoy dinner at the local restaurant.
Accommodation: One or two queen beds and private bathroom.
Meals: Breakfast
Enjoy a quiet morning, take a walk on the beach, watch the sun rise. After a leisurely breakfast we head out to the village of Port Clements, and the protected lands of Yaaguun Gandlaay. Here we’ll visit the site of Kiidk’yaas, also known as the Golden Spruce. An easy hard packed hiking trail takes us to the banks of the Yakoun River where this mighty tree once stood. The Golden Spruce was a Sitka spruce tree that had a rare genetic mutation that caused its needles to be golden in colour. This tree was considered sacred by the Haida People.
On the trail you will learn about the tragic end of this tree and the efforts today to save and create a new Golden Spruce and visit the new Golden Spruce growing in Port Clements.
After lunch we head out to the Crystal Cabin, a small gift shop founded by the Dutheil family of jewelers 25 years ago. This shop is home to the Tlell Stone Circle, an outdoor exhibit of Haida Gwaii’s Geological Past. These stones, which are arranged in a medicine wheel, mark the intersection of two harmonic leylines and an entryway for light into the universe. We can stand in the middle of the circle to become more spiritually connected to Haida Gwaii.
Inside, guests can discover local and international selection of crystals, and gemstone jewelry. Be sure to pick up the Dutheil Family local signature specimens, including the Serenity Stone, Star Spirit Thunder Eggs, or Island Mist Agates.
At the end of the day, guests have the option to relax at their accommodation or follow a hiking hike to nearby Misty Meadows in Naikoon National Park. This trail leads to the Pesuta Shipwreck and takes three to four hours, there and back.
Accommodation: One or two queen beds and private bathroom.
Meals: Breakfast
Everyone needs a chill day and today is it. After a relaxing morning we’ll check the tides and head out to explore Tow Hill and Naikoon Provincial Park. We’ll walk along the boardwalk trail up Tow Hill with panoramic views of the sandy beaches and Masset Inlet. Naikoon National Park encompasses 72,640 hectares along the Northeast tip of Graham Island with 97 kilometres of sandy beaches, making it a beachcomber’s delight. The park is mostly lowland forest with stunted lodge pole pine, red and yellow cedar, Sitka spruce and Western Helmlock.
After our visit to Tow Hill we’ll walk along North Beach and sink out toes into the soft sand and do some beachcombing. We take refreshment at a funky local bakery set in the forest. In the afternoon passengers can visit the Dixon Maritime Museum and Delkatla Nature Sanctuary.
Accommodation: One or two queen beds and private bathroom.
Meals: Breakfast + Dinner
Our last full day on our Haida Gwaii vacation is spent touring the village of Old Masset. We visit the local chiefs’ Big House and then are guided by a local through the canoe shed. For a first hand and personal understanding of the Haida People we visit local carvers of argelitte, cedar and painters in their homes.
We’ll tour the more recent poles put up in the village and enjoy lunch with the locals at their favourite eating place. Other stops will include Sarah’s Gift House and the Raven Gallery. We stop for pictures of the local sites whenever and wherever possible, watch the eagles ride the wind along the shoreline or enjoy the treats thrown out to them by local fishermen.
By the end of this week you will have slowed down and become tuned to the unique rhythm of this place, of the peace and quiet that is Haida Gwaii. Your spirit will be renewed and love of nature awakened.
Accommodation: One or two queen beds and private bathroom.
Meals: Breakfast + Dinner
Alas, today is the last day of your Haida Gwaii vacation. After breakfast, we load our luggage and checkout of our accommodation. Your driver/guide will escort you to the Masset Airport in time for our afternoon flight and will wait until you depart.
Meals: Breakfast
I had high expectations for this trip to Haida Gwaii. They were exceeded!
Our tour in Haida Gwaii with Midnight Sun was an excellent experience, we learned and saw so much in a short time.
Everything went well from the beginning…Nina was very thorough with all the paperwork, making the process easy.
David was an excellent guide…and everything went so smoothly. We saw incredible things and had fantastic experiences because David, knew where to go, he has connections and his love and respect for Haida Gwaii is clear. We felt completely taken care of and shown so much, we learned a lot and felt quite grateful for his leadership and knowledge
The accommodation was very good at all three places. At Jags in Skidegate, incredible sunrises…we were sad not to be able to enjoy the much praised breakfast at Jag’s cafe, but our coffee conversation with Jags gave us much more than food…stories and knowledge. Haida House in Tlell, being close to the ocean and a river was very special as was the cooked breakfast. Ben our personal chef at Alaska View in Masset made us feel so welcome and taken care of, the food and service was so beautiful with a view from the dining room that takes your breath away.
The food…some absolute gems…dinner at Keenawail’s Kitchen was gorgeous to the eyes, and the ears (hearing about the food we were served) and the palate. Salmon everywhere (Ben’s was excellent), halibut, and the surprise on the last night of crab on the beach at a friend of David’s who treated us as friends and family.
The Island, the trees, the water, the air, the eagles, the ravens…the history in remains of a village, the horrors of colonization, the tales of the totems and the Haida people…and the trees…and paths made so you can walk among the trees and not damage the forest floor…Haawa to the builders of these for giving us a way to experience the trees.
And the art…the carvers who make those magnificent totems, and argillite pieces and the painters who set the Haida symbols and colours alive on a canvas.
Too many pictures to post…and so many are on-line…but truly an amazing tour it was, being on Haida Gwaii and being able to see and experience and learn so much.
An unforgettable week on Haida Gwaii, meeting with Haida carvers and other artists, Skidegate’s internationally renowned museum, hiking along rainforest trails, heartache tours through abandoned, moss-covered villages in Gwaii Haanas, humpback whales, comfortable lodgings, meals to suit a range of diets, a treasure chest of crafts in Masset, and much more, all led by our guide David, whose easy, relaxed style, flexibility and knowledge made for a lifetime of memories.
I toured Haida Gwaii with Midnight Sun Adventure in July 2025 and absolutely loved it! David was an amazing guide with so much knowledge to impart and the wisdom to know when to let us just explore. I got to experience the beautiful nature, experience Haida cultural and art and just generally revel in the place. I had so many experiences that I doubt I could have found on on my own. Thank you!
My trip on Haida Gwaii in July with Midnight Sun was spectacular. Our driver/guide was extremely knowledgeable and took us to wonderful places we would never have found on our own. Highlights included a tour of artist/carver Christian White’s longhouse carving shed and a day-long boat trip with Haida guides who answered innumerable questions about the history, culture, present and future aspirations of the Haida Nation. Spectacular beaches, deep forests and soaring eagles abound. It was a priceless trip
Hi Scott, I had an amazing experience, at every step.
The lodge hosts were very welcoming, accommodating and kind. I had a delicious supper my first night and enjoyed the uniqueness and warm atmosphere of the lodge. My breakfast was excellent, as well. Delicious egg dish and tasty bacon, too.
The excursion with Sea Wolf was incredible. I was fortunate to have a pretty diverse group of people on the tour. Our guide and deckhand, Karissa and Tyler, were top notch. I would book that experience again. Highly recommended.
I enjoyed my time at your property. Warm atmosphere, kind people, tasty food and a great view. I’d stay at Alert Bay Lodge again. If the opportunity happens and will recommend it to colleagues and friends.
Hope the rest of summer treats you well.
All the arrangements worked really well, the whale and bear watching were completely awesome (not a word I use often or lightly!). We loved Vancouver Island and Alert Bay, and we’d love to be back there again one day.
Fantastic Alert Bay adventure! Nina and Scott went out of their way to make our experience in Alert Bay special. We had a great trip up from Victoria with stops and stories along the way. Toured Alert Bay and learned a lot about the locals and the history of the area. Very special visits at the lodge from First Nation members who shared songs, lore and salmon preparation. A memorable experience!
The whole trip went very well and I was very lucky with both whale and bear sightings. I would also like to mention Rich and Emma as they made my stay at the lodge excellent and were always available to help with any of my travel or trip arrangements.
The whole tour could not be faulted, supremely well organised from start to finish. They even organised the bears to come and see us as well as the whales. If anybody wants to reconnect with nature, quietness and learn some Culture then I can’t recommend this highly enough. I left the Island a different person and couldn’t fault one part of this trip. I want to thank everybody involved in this Adventure because you are all Bloody Brilliant!